Shah Jalal’s Dargah is a spiritual site in the city of Sylhet, primarily known as the residence and final resting place of Shah Jalal, a prominent Islamic preacher from the West who arrived in Bangladesh around 1303 AD. Located approximately 8 kilometers east of Sylhet city, 3 kilometers inside from the Tamabil road, on a high and scenic hill, lies the eternal resting place of Hazrat Shah Jalal (R.A). He is regarded as a famous Sufi saint and Pir (spiritual leader) of the Indian subcontinent and is also known by the title “Olikul Shiromani” (Crown Jewel of the Saints). Some believe that the spread of Muslim civilization and religious culture in Sylhet was centered around this very dargah. This place, filled with both legendary and mystical memories of Shah Jalal, is one of Sylhet’s most significant pilgrimage sites. After Shah Jalal’s conquest of Sylhet—prompted by the oppression of Sylhet’s first Muslim, Sheikh Burhan Uddin (R.A), by the Hindu king Gour Govinda—Shah Jalal and his 360 companions arrived, which is why Sylhet is often referred to as “The Land of the 360 Saints.” This is also why some refer to Sylhet as a “holy land.” According to historian Achyut Charan Chowdhury, the followers of Shah Jalal, dispatched from this dargah, helped propagate Muslim culture and traditions across places like Dhaka, Mymensingh, Tripura, Comilla, and Assam. Every year, thousands of people from various regions of Bangladesh and India visit this dargah to express their devotion and gratitude to the Creator during the annual Urs (locally pronounced as “Urus”).
The fascinating aspects of the Dargah, both legendary and mystical, are as follows |
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1. The similarity between the soil of Arabia and the soil of Sylhet. |
It is said that before traveling to the Eastern lands, Shah Jalal’s (R.A.) uncle and spiritual guide, Syed Ahmad Kabir (R.A.), gave him a handful of soil and said, “Wherever you find soil similar in taste, color, and scent to this soil, settle there and spread Islam.” Hazrat Shah Jalal (R.A.) entrusted this soil to his notable disciple, Sheikh Ali, and instructed him to compare the soil of different regions with this one during their journey. This disciple later earned the title “Chashni Pir.” His shrine is located in Gowaipara, Sylhet. When they found that the soil of Sylhet matched that of Arabia, Hazrat Shah Jalal (R.A.) decided to settle in Sylhet and dedicate himself to spreading Islam. The discovery of oil and gas in Sylhet is seen as further evidence of the similarity between the soil of Arabia and that of Sylhet. |
2. Gojar Maach |
To the north of Hazrat Shah Jalal’s (R.A.) shrine complex, there is a pond that contains numerous Gojar fish (snakehead fish). These fish are considered sacred, and visitors often feed them small fish as an act of reverence. At the western corner of the pond, there is a setup for selling small fish for feeding. The pond also provides a facility for ablution (Wudu). On December 4, 2003, poison was maliciously applied to the pond, resulting in the death of over 700 Gojar fish. The pond was left empty of these sacred fish, and the dead fish were buried in the cemetery located on the western side of the mosque. After the pond became devoid of Gojar fish, on January 11, 2004, 24 Gojar fish were brought from the shrine of another companion of Hazrat Shah Jalal, Shah Mustafa (R.A.), located in Moulvibazar, and released into the pond. It is reported that the number of Gojar fish in the pond has now grown to several hundred. |
3. Jalali Pigeons and Nizamuddin Auliya |
Upon recognizing the spiritual power of Hazrat Shah Jalal (R.A.), Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya (R.A.) warmly embraced him. As a token of affection, Nizamuddin Auliya (R.A.) gifted him a pair of pigeons with a distinctive “Surma” (dark grey) color, known as Jalali pigeons. The Surma-colored pigeons seen today in Sylhet and the surrounding areas are believed to be the descendants of that original pair and are famously known as Jalali pigeons. In Sylhet, regardless of caste, religion, or background, no one harms or consumes these pigeons. Instead, the local residents provide them with food and shelter. Every day, flocks of these pigeons can be seen flying around the shrine of Shah Jalal (R.A.). The shrine authorities also provide food for these pigeons, maintaining the tradition of care and reverence for them. |
4. Tax-Exempt Sylhet |
Hazrat Shah Jalal (R.A.) was a selfless Sufi ascetic, free from worldly desires and greed. It is said that the Emperor of Delhi sent him a royal decree offering him a noble title. However, Hazrat Shah Jalal (R.A.) rejected the offer, stating that he was a detached fakir with no need for nobility. At one point, the emperor even requested him to accept the land grant of Sylhet, but Shah Jalal (R.A.) refused this as well. Eventually, out of respect and admiration for Hazrat Shah Jalal (R.A.), Emperor Alauddin Khilji declared the city of Sylhet as tax-exempt (revenue-free or “Kasbah”). Because of this decree, the land of Sylhet remains free from taxes to this day. |
5. The Zamzam Well and Waterfall |
To the west of the Dargah hill, a little distance away, is the miraculous spring or waterfall of Hazrat Shah Jalal (R.A.). Various legends and miraculous tales surrounding this waterfall continue to be prevalent among the people. According to local belief in Sylhet, the water flowing from the waterfall resembles that of the Zamzam well, and patients drink this water to gain healing. Long ago, there was a pond located to the northeast of Shah Jalal’s residence and prayer house on the Dargah hill. People from all communities, both Hindu and Muslim, used the water from this pond. Concerned about the purity of the water used for ablution and bathing, Shah Jalal (R.A.) ordered the digging of a well to the west of the Dargah hill. After the well was constructed, he prayed to Allah, asking Him to connect this well’s water with that of Zamzam. Subsequently, he struck the ground of the well with his stick while reciting an Islamic phrase (“Bismillah”), and immediately water began to flow into the well. Fish with golden and silver hues were born, which can still be seen in the well today. After this, walls were constructed around the well, and two stones were placed on the northern side, from which water continuously flows. In the past, people used to drink this water with belief and devotion, and today, the water from this spring is sold in bottles. |
6. Cooking Pot |
To the east of the shrine, there is a one-story room that contains three large cooking pots (dekchi). It is said that these were donated by Mir Murad from Dhaka, who also built the Hoseni Dalan in Dhaka. Although these pots are not used for cooking, it is said that each pot has the capacity to cook seven goats’ meat and seven hundred weight of rice at once. For the sake of merit, visitors donate a considerable amount of money to these pots every day. |
7. Chilkhana |
To the south of the shrine, there is a small room enclosed with grills and decorated with stars; this is the Chilkhana of Hazrat Shah Jalal (R.A.). The space is only two feet wide. It is said that Hazrat Shah Jalal (R.A.) spent 23 years of his life in worship and devotion within this Chilkhana. |
8. Items Used by Shah Jalal |
Hazrat Shah Jalal (R.A.) was not only a revered saint but also a brave warrior. There are arrangements for visitors to view his used items, including a sword, sandals, plates, and bowls. To the south of the shrine, there is an entrance through the Dargah Madrasa building. Proceeding through this entrance, the house on the left belongs to Mufti Nazimuddin Ahmad. In this house, Hazrat Shah Jalal’s (R.A.) sword and sandals are preserved. The plates and bowls are kept in the house of the Dargah’s caretaker (Mohtamil). Every day, a crowd of curious people gathers to see these items. |
9. Dargah Mosque |
In 1400, during the reign of Sultan Abu Mujafar Yusuf Shah of Bengal, a mosque was built in the courtyard of the Dargah under the administration of Minister Majlis-e-Attar. It was reconstructed in 1744 during the time of Bahram Khan, the Faujdar. Today, it stands as one of the prominent mosques in Sylhet city. |
Circumambulation of the Dargah
The shrine of Shah Jalal (R.A.) is referred to as Dargah Hill. At the northern edge of the hill, the tomb of Shah Jalal is located within a walled area, constructed with four tall pillars at each corner. On the western side of the saint’s tomb, there is a small mosque adjacent to the wall, which was reconstructed by Wilks, the then magistrate and collector of Sylhet. To the east and west of Shah Jalal’s tomb lie the graves of Prince Sheikh Ali of Yemen and Makbul Khan, the minister of the Gaur Kingdom in India, respectively. On the southern approach to the Dargah, beside the entrance, there are the graves of three saints, Haji Yusuf, Haji Khalil, and Haji Daria, who assisted the saint. Next to them is the grave of the former caretaker of the Dargah, Abu Turab. Further west from here, along the entrance, there is another enclosure containing the graves of two other caretakers of the Dargah, Abu Nasir and Abu Nasar, who are buried side by side. To the south, there is a tall building known as the Clock House, which features a dome. East of this clock house is a large building with a prominent dome, known as a strong structure in this region. It is commonly referred to as the Dome, which was built during the reign of Emperor Aurangzeb by his trusted worker, Farhad Khan. South of the dome, there is a large prayer hall known as the Dargah Mosque, which serves the Muslim community. This mosque was built during the time of Sultan Abu Mujafar Yusuf Shah of Bengal (in 1400) by Minister Majlis-e-Attar, and it was later reconstructed in 1744 during the time of Faujdar Bahram Khan. This mosque is the largest place of worship for Muslims in Sylhet city. In front of the mosque, there is a vast courtyard that runs north-south. The courtyard has been constructed very solidly with stone masonry on the hill. To descend from the hill, there are stairs located on the east and south sides of the courtyard. When you descend the stairs, you will find a single-roofed room beside the Dargah Hill, which is built for female visitors to worship. To the north, there is a water system for ablutions (recently established) for the worshippers. A short distance to the north, in a large pond, swim fish of the Gazar species, which come to the surface when called for food. According to popular folklore, Shah Jalal used to keep these fish, which is why devotees and the local residents of Sylhet continue to show affection towards the Gazar fish. In December 2003, unknown individuals poisoned and killed more than 700 Gazar fish in the pond, leaving it empty of fish. Later, in January 2004, 24 Gazar fish were brought from the pond of the shrine of Shah Mustafa in Moulvibazar and released into the pond. It is reported that the number of Gazar fish in the pond has now reached several hundred. To the immediate north of the Dargah pond and east of Dargah Hill, there is a large courtyard. In the northeastern part of this courtyard, there used to be a large Langarkhana (a place for serving free food). Long ago, this was used as a shelter for tourists, foreign visitors, and the poor and needy, but it is currently closed due to environmental reasons. East of the Langarkhana, in another room, there are two large cooking pots made of brass, each capable of cooking seven cows and seven hundred weight of rice at once. Inscribed in Persian on the edge of these pots is that Sheikh Abu Saeed, son of Yar Mohammad, who resided in Jahangir Nagar (the old name of Dhaka), had these pots made and sent to the Dargah by Murad Bakhsh. The date is mentioned as the month of Ramadan in 1106 Hijri (1695 AD). At the eastern boundary of the Dargah courtyard and just south of the pot room, there is a long wall running north-south, with the main entrance to the Dargah located in the middle of it, known as the Dargah Gate. To the south of the Dargah Gate, there is a hostel along with a Hafizia Madrasa.
History of Dargah
After the conquest of Sylhet, Sultan Shamsuddin Firuz Shah of Delhi proposed to Shah Jalal to take over the governance of Sylhet. However, Shah Jalal rejected this proposal. Subsequently, the Sultan issued a special proclamation, declaring Sylhet city (Kasbe Sylhet) tax-free and honoring the saint, which still remains in effect (in the area related to the shrine). Since the Sultanate era, it was customary for Nawabs, kings, or royal officials visiting Sylhet to construct various types of buildings and to enhance and expand the shrine with respect. There are various inscriptions on bronze and stone plaques indicating that the structures located in the courtyard of the shrine were built during the Sultanate and Mughal periods. For example, on the plaque of the largest mosque in Sylhet, it is stated that it was constructed by the Sultans of Bengal in 1400. A plaque also indicates that the wall surrounding the tomb of Shah Jalal was built by Lutfullah Amin Bakshi. Thus, various buildings, mosques, and ponds have been constructed over time by different rulers, including kings and sultans, in homage to Shah Jalal. Additionally, records of donations for the Dargah’s Langarkhana, provisions for the caretakers, and contributions for the illumination of the shrine can also be found, showcasing the respect shown by the Sultans and Mughal emperors towards the saint. Whenever the royal officials from Delhi were appointed as governors of Sylhet, it was customary for them to visit the shrine to pay their respects before assuming their duties. They would officially acknowledge their appointment through the caretakers of the shrine, and this tradition persisted until the early British colonial period. An examination of old records from the Dargah reveals that when the royal officials from Delhi arrived at the shrine in grand style, the Sheikh of the Khanqah would ceremonially place a turban on the heads of the royal officials. The public would not accept them as governors until Shah Jalal’s endorsement was formally announced.
When will you go? |
Thousands of people from various regions of the country visit the shrine in Sylhet every day, regardless of their religion or caste. Therefore, it can be said that the shrine can be visited at any time of the year. |
Distance of Hazrat Shahjalal Rah. Shrine from various divisional cities of the country |
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Dhaka | 236 km. |
Rajshahi | 449 km. |
Rangpur | 501 km. |
Sylhet | 8 km. |
Mymensingh | 177 km. |
Khulna | 439 km. |
Barishal | 401 km. |
Chittagong/
Caṭṭagrāma
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386 km. |
Ways to go from Dhaka |
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Bus |
Bus Stands of Dhaka:-
(Buses are available at Gabtali and Sayedabad bus stands from morning until 12:45 AM.) |
Buses:-
(Before traveling, always make sure to confirm where you are going and whether the transportation options will get you to your destination on time. Because along with changes in time, information can also be subject to change.) |
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Train |
Trains:-
(Taking the Ubudan Express is the most convenient option for traveling by train. The train schedule may change, so it’s best to check ahead before making a decision.) |
Air Plane |
Airplanes:-
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Ways to go from Rajshahi |
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Bus |
Bus Stands:-
Buses:-
(Before traveling, always make sure to confirm where you are going and whether the transportation options will get you to your destination on time. Because along with changes in time, information can also be subject to change.) |
Train |
[There is no direct train from Rajshahi to Sylhet. You will need to first go to Dhaka and then take a train from there.] Popular trains to Dhaka:
[Since you have to catch the Dhaka mail train. So first it is better to go to Dhaka by fast express from Natore] |
Air Plane |
Air Planes:
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Ways to go from Rangpur |
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Bus |
Bus Stands:-
Buses:-
(Before traveling, always make sure to confirm where you are going and whether the transportation options will get you to your destination on time. Because along with changes in time, information can also be subject to change.) |
Train |
[There is no direct train from Rangpur to Sylhet. You have to go to Dhaka first and then take the train.] Popular trains to Dhaka:
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Air Plane |
[Since there is no airport in Rangpur, you will need to travel to Sylhet from Syadpur.] Air Planes:
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Ways to go from Chittagong |
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Bus |
Bus Stands:-
Buses:-
(Before traveling, always make sure to confirm where you are going and whether the transportation options will get you to your destination on time. Because along with changes in time, information can also be subject to change.) |
Train |
Popular trains:
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Air Plane |
Air Planes:
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Ways to go from Mymensingh |
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Bus |
Bus Stands:-
Buses:-
(Before traveling, always make sure to confirm where you are going and whether the transportation options will get you to your destination on time. Because along with changes in time, information can also be subject to change.) |
Train |
[There is no direct train from Mymensingh to Sylhet. You have to go to Dhaka first and then take the train.] Popular trains to Dhaka:
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Ways to go from Khulna |
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Bus |
[There is no direct bus service available from Khulna to Sylhet. You have to go to Dhaka first and then take train or bus or airplane.] Bus Stands:-
Buses to Dhaka:-
(Before traveling, always make sure to confirm where you are going and whether the transportation options will get you to your destination on time. Because along with changes in time, information can also be subject to change.) |
Train |
[There is no direct train from Khulna to Sylhet. You have to go to Dhaka first and then take the train] Popular trains to Dhaka:
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Air Plane |
[There is no direct flight from Khulna to Sylhet. You have to go to Dhaka first and then go by bus or train or airplane.] Air Planes to Dhaka:
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Ways to go from Barishal |
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Bus |
Bus Stands:-
Buses:-
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Accommodation and food |
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(It is possible to visit the places of Sylhet in one day. In that case you have to start the journey from dawn. Or should be. Sylhet has all kinds of facilities for staying and eating.) |
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Residential Hotels |
(If you search the internet with the name of the residential hotels, you will get all the information related to booking.) |
Restaurants |
Restaurants at Jinda Bazar:
Restaurants at Jaflong Road, Mirabazar:
Other Restaurants:
(You will find many restaurants anywhere in the city or around residential hotels.) |
(There are quite a few rest houses on Lala Bazaar and Dargah Road.) |
Note- Beware of all kinds of brokers/scammers. Be very careful on the way so as not to get into any kind of danger. In case of any problem, take the help of local administration or call the National Emergency Service of Bangladesh – 999.
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